A couple of weeks ago, I headed to Saudi Arabia for the very first time. My plan was to fly from Munich to Jeddah with a layover in Riyadh, after which I would board the fast train that cuts through the desert to finally meet my family in Mecca.
As someone who spent my formative years in Tunisia, I had my fair share of preconceptions about #SaudiArabia. In my mind, Saudis were far more religiously rigid than Tunisians. I had heard tales of the infamous and now defunct "Moral Brigade", which arrested women for things like speaking to men they were not related to in public or simply being caught behind the wheel of a car. Moreover, having spent significant time in Paris and London, I witnessed the lavish lifestyles of Gulf nationals and their indifference to others, which reinforced my negative assumptions. To top it all off, I fully expected to suffer under the unforgiving Saudi heat that the region is so well known for.
So, what was I thinking as I boarded that flight from Munich, a female traveler with uncovered hair? I had heard of the kingdom’s young king and his ambitious plans to modernize both the country and the lives of women. Were his reforms more than just words? I was about to find out.
The shift in my perspective began almost immediately, during my flight with #Saudia airlines. The crew was exceptionally generous, offering food and drinks at every turn, refilling my plate and cup without me having to ask. There was no need to retreat to the back of the plane to help myself as I typically would. To my surprise, I found myself seated next to two friendly Saudi women. They were warm and chatty, offering me extra food and even inviting me to visit the capital on my next trip.
Upon arriving in Riyadh late at night, I was greeted by female airport staff. Whether they wore the niqab or hijab, these women were out in public, working demanding jobs—a sight I would never witness back home in Tunisia.
After a smooth connection to Jeddah, I boarded the fast train to Mecca, which was perhaps the cleanest and most efficient train I had ever taken.
Finally, I arrived in Mecca the next morning. Despite the city’s historical significance as the birthplace of Prophet Mohamed, I had imagined it to be a quaint, almost untouched place. But Mecca, as I soon learned, is a sprawling metropolis of 2.5 million people, bustling with activity and lined with towering skyscrapers.
I got to the hotel and checked-in early, got up to my room and drifted off to sleep until the late afternoon when my mom and sister arrived.
The next days went by so fast, they were packed with family lunches and dinners and visits to the most famous sites of the city.
During my stay, the spirit of Mecca captivated me. The city, which never sleeps, is alive with visitors from all over the world—each one carrying their own cultural and language background, yet all united in their devotion. I encountered people from Indonesia, Egypt, Yemen, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and beyond. Despite the throngs of people, there was a remarkable sense of calm and respect, with occasional curious glances and conversations.
The hotel service in Mecca was world-class. Of all the hotels I’ve stayed in across all the countries I’ve visited, the #Jumeirah hotel in Mecca stood out for its exceptional hospitality. From the thoughtful staff who remedied a missed dinner reservation with complimentary dessert and lunch, to the waiter who noticed my sister’s cough and brought her a ginger infusion without us asking, the service was beyond exceptional.
On another note, the Uber drivers we met were always respectful and in high spirits, happily sharing stories about their families and cultures.
On my sister and mother's last day, we ventured to Jeddah and toured the enchanting streets of Al-Balad, the old town that inspired the Disney movie #Aladdin. We made a serendipitous connection with a young Moroccan woman who joined us for drinks and dinner, and even bumped into two German men from Munich. It truly is a small world!
The next day, after my family had left, I explored a bit more on my own. In a small shop, a shopkeeper kindly offered me water and the Wi-Fi password as I waited for my Uber—a gesture of hospitality that seemed to follow me everywhere I went. Speaking of water, during my entire stay in Saudi Arabia, I never had to buy water. It was available -for free- pretty much everywhere.
Throughout my time in Saudi Arabia, I was struck by the absence of the judgment I had feared. No one made me feel out of place for not wearing the veil. I never once felt harassed or uncomfortable while walking around with my mother and sister. Even in the heat, tempers remained cool, with a kind of collective patience I had not expected.
In the end, it wasn’t just the hospitality that warmed me—it was the realization that the country I had feared to some extent had quietly, but powerfully, changed my outlook. The people, the culture, the sense of togetherness—none of it fit into the narrow frame I had drawn in my mind.
And if there’s one last thing I’ll remember? Ironically, for a place known for its heat, I spent much of my trip shivering in over-air-conditioned spaces! One employee at the airport even joked that I should write a review to the airport management team to ask to turn the temperature up.
I left Saudi Arabia with a heart full of stories, many of which I’ll carry with me for a lifetime, and a newfound appreciation for a country I had once misunderstood. It’s true what they say—travel not only opens your eyes to the world, but also to the barriers you’ve built within yourself.
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